Thursday, October 7, 2010

Happy to Soil my Pants

Today I stepped on a bug and felt no remorse. I would make a terrible Buddhist; I do however, make a fairly descent dirtbag.  I have been hitting Wild Iris every chance I've had, and had a damn good time in the process.  There is little consistency in who I climb with from day to day but never any real shortage of partners when I actually try to find one.  Yesterday's mob consisted of Hannah, Amanda, and yours truly.   Hannah is a recent acquaintance and both of the girls are fairly inexperienced which carries the potential for a sketchy belay.  Amanda, however has been climbing with me for a little over a month, belaying me on climbs I knew I wouldn't fall from.  So yesterday I nudged her a little further, allowing her to belay me on some hard climbs including my project, Phony Express.

We warmed up with some 8's and 10's then moved straight on over to Phony Express.  I had been growing weary of the climb and had decided whether I succeeded or not, my draws were coming off the route before we went home.  I anchored Amanda down (I've got 75 pounds on her) and headed up the slab.  Pulling the moves with confidence, I breezed through the slab as I'd done so many times before.  Reaching the roof I shook out my hands, chalked up, took a deep breath, and punched it.  My hands stuck the dynamic move out the roof on there own, my mind observing from afar.  Every move felt effortless and graceful.  I clipped the last bolt, the next clip would be the anchors.  Contorting my body I moved for the last few holds, right left, unthinkable!!! I watched as the rock moved away from me in slow motion 3 moves from the top. Farther than I'd ever been on the route I was crushed. The exileration of reaching a new high point was overwhelmed by the dissapointment I felt from having failed...again. I fought my way up the route and took down my draws.

Feeling somewhat defeated, I packed my bag and we headed for the Ok Corral where there was a better selection of routes for the girls to get on. I led them to some 5.8's and let them do there own thing while I cought my breath and rested. Not feeling completely drained, I decided to go for one more route after Hannah and Amanda got a few pitches in. I located a route I'd marked in my guide book over a month before. Thinking nothing of the route's grade, 5.12a, and expecting nothing great form myself, I roped up. Long story short, I breezed it, struggling only at the last move. "The solace of bolted faces" became my first 5.12 onsight (I climbed it cleanly first go with no idea of what the beta was). Day saved-BOOM.


A guy from Jackson Hole came into the shop today at work asking if we wouldn't mind to post some stuff in the window and promote the skiing over there. In return they said they would hook us up...I have a FREE season Pass to JACKSON HOLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bring on the powder!

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